The Flinders Ranges, SA

We headed through Port Augusta inland towards the Flinders Ranges. Having Dad & Beth still with us, we stayed at a tiny little town called Hawker about 50km south of the National Park. I had assumed, because it had 2 Big4 caravan parks, that it would also have a supermarket – how wrong was I! This one-horse town didn’t even have a general store! So the next day Kieren had to do a quick dash back to Quorn 65km away to stock up! The caravan park was a lovely bush camp style (with the bonus of power) but we were sick of the copious amounts of flies after about half an hour.

The next day we drove out to the Flinders Ranges National Park where we saw an amazing amount of emus, kangaroos, wallabys and other species (Wallaroos?). We hiked up the beautiful Rivergum-lined walk into Wilpena Pound where an old homestead has been preserved. From there we followed the trail to the Pound lookout which was spectacular! The kids loved pointing out all the lizards sunbaking on the rocks on our way back down. We lunched on the verandah of the homestead before returning. All-in-all a good 8km hike (especially in the heat!)

Sunrise

Wilpena Pound Lookout

Homestead

Majestic Rivergums

My resilient boy on a resilient tree!

The next 2 days were REALLY hot – between 35-37 with hot gusty winds. There were a fair amount of fire danger warnings out so we didn’t want to plan any long walks. (we can’t carry a huge amount of water either for 6 of us.) So instead we did some 4 wheel driving (much to my Dad’s delight J).

The first track we took was part of the Heyson Trail and was very open & hot. We went up to Aroona Ruins where we inspected a homestead built in “pug & slab” style – basically tree trunks surrounded by chicken wire which they then ‘mud up’. A famous artist, Sir Hans Heyson used this as his base when painting the Flinders Ranges. In fact, the trail & mountain range are named after him. His description of the ranges as ‘the bones of nature laid bare’ is so apt. The flies & heat at this point were horrid so the kids chose to sit in the car whilst Nan & Pa went to the Heyson lookout. Wish we’d bought flynets this time! We did have a quick look around the farmhouse ruins & still-operating spring.

After lunch we went through Brachina Gorge – you literally drive along the dry riverbed through the ABC Quartzite range and then on through the Heyson Range. It is such a surreal feeling driving over riverstones with mountains towering on either side. The huge rivergums make you feel so little! It was one of the most amazing bush drives we have done on our trip. In fact so good we even went back and did it the next day via the more southerly Bunyeroo Gorge.

Kieren & I had the luxury of going out for dinner that night thanks to Dad & Beth and some birthday money J. We selected the local ‘Ghan Railway Restaurant’ as it was the only choice in town & sounded pretty historic. What followed made us feel like we were on the Oz version of the Faulty Towers set. Picture a bushie chef (who’s worked there since 1969), a clumsy young waiter,  a very staid 14 person bird-watching tour group from the UK, a grey nomad couple & us. Kieren & I had to retreat to the Pool room cos we were in stitches.

The last night of our stay, Nan & Pa planned a bush poetry night. We had an early BBQ dinner and then sat around the camp kitchen listening to renditions of Banjo Patterson’s “Saltbush Bill”, “Mulga Bill’s Bicycle” and Dorothy McKellar’s “My Country”. The sunset was spectacular as a huge lightning storm blew through. What a great end to our bush trip!